Why This Watch Matters

This is an incredibly elegant everyday watch from Longines that was produced in the 1940s. At 37mm in diameter, the case size stands up to modern standards while maintaining classic minimalism in design.

The Full Story

Longines' design and quality during the 1940s and 1950s were second to none compared to competitors at the time. Beyond renowned chronographs, such as the 13ZN, this reputation can be traced back to oversized time-only "calatrava" watches with extremely clean and minimalist dial layouts. The movements inside are some of the most well-built you'll come across.

On the surface, this watch looks like a simple time-only, dare we say a "dress watch." However, this example is more than simple and elegant. The stainless steel case was considered oversized for its day at 37mm in diameter while sitting near flush to the wrist at only 11mm thick. An extract from the Longines Archives is included with the watch and mentions that this watch was invoiced on December 31, 1946 to Japercia, the agent for Longines in Brazil at the time.

Worn today, the watch plays even larger than the dimensions alone suggest due to an extremely slim bezel. The dial design has certainly stood the test of time. It's perfectly subdued with attractive fonts and a gorgeous slate silver finish. Completing the overall look is a blued steel handset that adds some contrast and shows off the high finishing capabilities of Longines from this era. 

We paired this vintage Longines with our HODINKEE Textured Grey Calfskin Strap to offer a monochromatic look against the stainless steel case and silver-tone dial. Adding texture in the stap choice brings another dimension to this example. The watch would work just as well on a NATO-style strap as it does on a finely finished leather strap, such as this one.

The Fine Print

Maker: Longines
Model: Calatrava
Reference: 5045
Year: 1946
Movement No: 7080613
Material: Stainless steel
Dimensions: 37mm diameter; 11mm thickness
Crystal: Plexiglass
Lume: No
Caliber: Longines, manual-winding, caliber 12.68N
Bracelet/Strap:
Lug Width: 18mm
Box/Papers: No; This is accompanied by an Extract from the Archives of Longines

What we Love and What You Should Know

This Longines is in overall very good condition. The case is strong with light scratches, and the edges are still sharp. This case appears to have been lightly polished in the past. The dial is in overall good condition with light patina. There's a small scratch near the center of the dial to the right of the center post, with a few other small imperfections throughout. The Longines text shows some slight signs of wear. The hour markers and hands are in great condition with light patina. This watch was photographed on a 175mm/6.9inch wrist.