Why This Watch Matters
This late 1980s TAG Heuer 1000 Series diver is a great reminder of how a simple dive watch with a bit of interesting flair can be all you really need.
The Full Story
In the late 1970s, Heuer was going through a bit of a lull in its history. After the caliber 11 – one of the first automatic chronograph movements – was released in 1969 with the Monaco, the brand rode that wave into the mid-1970s in the face of the quartz crisis. However, the market changed so rapidly that, a few years later, in the late-70s, Heuer was sustaining itself as a company largely and nearly exclusively on the back of their stopwatch and timing instrument business – in other words, wristwatch sales had slumped hard.
Jack Heuer heard complaints from American sporting goods stores at business fairs through the late-70s. The retailers were having a hard time sourcing a dive watch to offer under a private-label that didn't fail, eventually letting in water, and leaving customers coming back to the stores for a refund. Mr. Heuer explained to calibre11.com, "That gave me the idea of trying to enter this market with a range of sturdy, Rolex-style diving watches with quartz movements, which would avoid overusing the winding crown as was inevitable with mechanical movements. To our great surprise our new diving watches were very well received by the market."
Released in 1979, the Heuer 1000 Series Professional diver proved to be a massive success throughout the 1980s, reviving the brand in the wristwatch market and specifically finding many fans in the Japanese market. For more information on Heuer 1000 Series divers, please .
This ref. 980.029N TAG Heuer 1000 Series Professional diver dates to the late 1980s, following Heuer becoming TAG Heuer in 1986. The watch is sometimes referred to as the "Black Coral" in reference to the PVD coated case and bracelet. PVD coatings from this period are notoriously fragile; the earliest PVD watches in the 1970s can be scratched with a fingernail. By the late 1980s, when this TAG Heuer was manufactured, they'd refined the process and toughened the coating material.
The Fine Print
Maker: Heuer
Model: 1000 Series Professional
Reference: 980.029N
Year: Circa late 1980s
Case No: 2881003
Material: PVD-coated and gold-plated stainless steel
Dimensions: 37mm diameter; 9.5mm thickness
Crystal: Sapphire
Lume: Yes, tritium
Caliber: TAG Heuer, quartz, 2.89 ( ETA 955 114)
Bracelet/Strap: Heuer 229/3 PVD coated and yellow gold plated stainless steel bracelet with divers extension
Lug Width: 18mm
Box/Papers: No
What We Love And What You Should Know
What We Love:
- Black and gold motif
- Attractive patina on lume
- Well-preserved PVD coating
- Recently serviced
What You Should Know:
- Light wear on PVD and gold plated areas
This TAG Heuer diver is in overall very good and honest condition. This watch was recently serviced including a new battery and gaskets. The case is strong and shows some light scratches. There is some light wear to the coating and plating in certain areas. The engravings on the caseback are all clearly visible and crisp.
The dial is in great condition without any blemishes and has retained a gorgeous soft matte black finish. The lume on the handset and dial have all aged to the same color.
The bezel is in good condition with some light wear to the gold plating and sharp notches on the edge; it rotates as it should. The lume pip at 12 o'clock on the bezel has developed light patina that is slightly darker than the lume on the dial and hands. The crown has a spot of wear on the side. The bracelet has some scratches and wear to the PVD finish on the edges. The gold plating on the end-links and flip-lock clasp shows some signs of wear. The dial, crown case, movement, and bracelet are signed by TAG Heuer. This watch was photographed on a 175mm/6.9inch wrist and on a 140mm/5.5inch wrist.
