Why This Watch Matters

The Polerouter was designed by the legendary Gerald Génta when he was 24 years old. Here is the model in one of its more pure forms.

The Full Story

Universal Genève's Polerouter was originally released in 1954 and was designed by Gérald Genta, sculptor of the AP Royal Oak and Patek Philippe Nautilus. Our very own Cole Pennington did an excellent job of covering as much of the Polerouter as he possibly could in his A Week On The Wrist video and article. As is so aptly described by Cole and his research, there are nearly an estimated 1,000 executions of the Polerouter that grew from its original Genta design in 1954 to being printed on most time-only watches created by Universal Genève in the 1970s.

The manufacturer was in partnership with Scandinavian Airline System (SAS) to develop an automatic watch to be more resistant to the magnetism of the North and South poles. This example is fitted with the original bumper-style movement, before Universal Genève introduced the caliber 215 with a micro-rotor. The watch also features a handsome black cross-hair dial and silvered outer track, giving it a very sophisticated appearance. The lyre lugs on the Polerouter are reminiscent of the lugs on the Omega Speedmaster, giving this time-only watch a bit of a sportier look. The Polerouter is a prime example of how Universal Genève produced some great time-only watches besides the more discussed chronographs.

While there are 1,000 executions, this reference and variant is possibly the purest iteration of Genta's first design. Without a date complication and in the original form as the Polerouter from 1954, this example is an extremely clean design from extremely strong pedigree.

We paired this UG with our Holland strap in taupe – a very HODINKEE strap choice for a very HODINKEE watch.

The Fine Print

What We Love And What You Should Know

Things We Love:

• Cross-hair dial
• Bumper automatic movement
• Twisted lyre lugs

Things To Know:

• Unsigned replacement crown 
• Lume has darkened on dial and in hands

This Polerouter is in overall good, honest vintage condition. The case is strong with scratches, marks, and light nicks. The "lyre" shape of the lyre lugs is clearly visible. The caseback engravings and numbers have worn over the years, the numbers are no longer visible. There are some more major scratches on the caseback from prior removal attempts. The reverse of the lugs have some scratches from strap changing.

The dial is in attractive condition overall with a light patina throughout. The center of the dial above the hands has some wear; this is not very noticeable. The outer ring has a bit of patina. Most of the luminous material on the dial has degraded and darkened, the lume is hard to notice. The hands have developed some patina. The lume on the hands has aged to a dark custard color.

The crystal has light scratches. The crown is an unsigned replacement. The dial, case, and movement are signed by Universal Genève. This watch was photographed on a 175mm/6.9inch wrist.